Tailoring is sewing that is done in a built-up manner, in a constructed way. It is a sewing process that is mostly geared to accomodate the male body in shaping, style, coloring and fabric choices.
Women may wear tailored garments, but these articles are only semi-built at most, and color/pattern choices are substantially diminished due to incompatibility with tailored clothing styles.
The tailor's job
The highest goal of a tailor is to create a garment that effects an improved body shape in a flattering color, constructed in a most event-suitable fabric and occasion-worthy style. The result should appear fuss-free and mold to the wearer smoothly, or else fall away gracefully; thus the adage, "the suit makes the man."
Tailored clothing in general, should appear always as a wearable garment, barely peeking at the threshold of costume or uniform apparel. No embellishments or trims should ever carry the garment over that threshold, though. It must remain unquestionably, a real garment of the wearers'.
In style
Tailorwear is rarely thought of in terms of high fashion, since its main characteristic is that it should be timeless, a classic, with universal acceptance, shunning offense and obscenity. This is in opposition to fad fashion and "of-the-moment" looks.
A prime example is the American cut, semi-fitted suit jacket, as is the classic three button woman's blazer. Both examples are tailored, the female blazer ususally only partially so. In either case, these two styles have withstood the test of time for many decades, and are probably not going anywhere, any time soon.
Comfort is key
Suits and other tailored garments tend to have an undeserving reputation of being uncomfortable to wear, endowed with a stiffness, when in reality, a suit should be easy to don and easy to wear, since it is an inclusive garment. The extra layering and additional preening required, which consists of the shirt and tie, may be the culprits of discomfort -- but only if they are ill-fitted or unsuitable to the occasion!
Let's sew it up …
Although much of the process of creating a tailored, or built, garment, can be done by machine or adhesives; there are always a few elements that are best done by hand. This includes the chestpiece, the sleeve cap and may include the rolling construction of the lapel, as well as some of the internal inter- and under-facings and linings.
There are differing opinions on whether or not hand-rolling is superior to machining a roll into the garment. There are still a few European-trained tailors, young and old, who can beautifully sew a man's suit entirely by hand, using age-old techniques. The results yield an incomparably graceful garment.
The designing tailor
Tailoring as a vocation or craft requires far more than simple motor skills from its practitioners. It requires taste, and a great sense of the appropriate, for any and every occasion, and must be individually suited to varied personalities .
A tailor needs, in addition, a sensibility towards color coordination and a knack for enhancing skin tones with the right set of colors.
When utilizing the skills of a separate designer or wardrobe stylist as qualified helpers working as a team, a tailor need only concern himself with the mechanics of constructing the garment.
Fancy dressing
Tailoring bears a similarity with evening gown construction in that they both have lots of inside shaping. Yet the finished product barely exposes to the outside, any of the internal work that has gone on. One can scarcely guess the amount of work that has gone into the makings of a suit or an evening dress, nor detect the internal hardware or structuring tucked inside that gives the article its shape. The finished garment should have a smooth exterior shell with no telltale lumps, bumps or ridges.
You've got the notion …
Special stitches are used for tailoring that are exclusive to the trade and not typically used for the majority of other, standard garments. Proper tools and notions must be used for good results. The correct support accessories, such as linings and correct weight hymo, cannot be omitted or downgraded when aiming for perfect results.
Extra steps needed in labor, plus additional materials and supplies, account for the high price of quality tailored apparel.
Traditionally speaking …
Having roots in Europe's "Old World-liness" gives the craft its own set of traditions.
There is the practice of wearing white cotton gloves when working with silks, to avoid oils from the fingertips to soil the garment. It is implied that the clean in spirit leave no mark on silk, by noting the work of the celibates, nuns and "old maids"!
A commonly practiced tradition is to stand straight up atop the work table, and, gently twirling down into a cross-legged position, allow the garment to billow, draping of its own accord onto the lap. This allows for a natural tension in the fabric.
Still another, is to light up some rooms, and work in darkness occasionally. This tradition is practiced by a few nationals who vow that the threads and colors show true this way.
Most tailors shun overly formal dress while working, since we are craftsmen – "blue collars" at heart. Tailors employed in shops tend to wear sober suits on the job, removing the jacket to free up the body for working.
Like any craft, this one owes its set of habits from its more experienced workers.
Not so glam …
The work itself, which can be a bit laborious and somewhat messy, involves operating a series of machines: the straight stitch and the blind hem machine, and usually entails jumping from machine to machine for each article's completion. The machines tend to become lint filled and require oiling. Oil and lint tend to blend together, creating a greasy, dirty surface mess that must be cleaned up before working.
Another job requirement is the ability to accurately measure both the customer and the fabrics. This demands the ability to bend at the knees and waist, sometimes kneeling on the floor for a length of time.
Chalks are used as often as sharp pins, and tend to cover all surfaces with dust.
One must also be willing to wield the hefty cutting tools, heavy pinking shears and cutting shears that resemble hedge clippers, that quickly tire the arm when mass cutting. Cutting alone tends to generate "lint dust", a breathing hazard that is regulated by law in larger shops.
There are the steam-generating press equipment, too, which sometimes creates a sauna-like atmosphere and threatenes injury if used without caution.
Tailoring is an art
In 1830, Honoré de Balzac wrote, "Anything that aims at an effect is in bad taste,” which could be a tailor's mantra.
Though tailoring is a craft, it is also an art. The tailor is a hands-on artist – which is the definition of a craftsman. It takes a certain talent for a designer to meld the classic with the current, and come up with a saleable product. Most of the modern tailored looks are still rooted in the past.
Business
Tailors have walked the line between clients who feel hesitant and timid, who bring along a Letter of Introduction, sponsored by a current client, before daring to request a booking appointment.This step is fine for the celebrity tailor who has a fully booked calendar, but not really necessary for the average shop owner. On the other hand, it is the rare tailor who has never met an unyielding type of client, as occurs in almost every service job. It is up to the tailor to perservere in the clients' best interest, and a flexible personality is an absolute must.
It is not uncommon for the name of a good tailor to circulate around cocktail parties, and get passed along among the higher-end clothing client, providing us clout, and a fine reputation. Any small inkling of a specialty, be it waist-shaping or invisible re-weaving, in addition, is enough to guarantee a steady stream of clients looking for just that talent.
Discretion is key to our relationship with our customers - morally on par with a doctor's or lawyer's privilege of confidentiality.
A successful tailor is one who has developed a thick skin, yet remains a diplomat. Those two personality traits will carry him through the most delicate situations unscathed, with a good client list, to boot!
