In the past, clothing used to routinely include special little sewn-in features that improved the garment. For instance, sometimes a style needed to have a "stay" built into it to eliminate shifting or dropping of a section of the garment. An item might need to have "hanger loops" added to prevent a garment storage dilemma.
Adding a few extra touches to your clothes can really "up" the luxury quota, whether it is a piece made by hand or bought "off the rack" at a retail shop.
A waist stay
A dress with a waistline that needs to stay on the waist, a blousy dress, or a heavy gathered skirt portion, or an elastic waisted dress - will benefit from a built-in stay. This is a wide grosgrain sash that is tacked inside the dress at the side seams, and front princess seams, if there are any. The loose ends of the sash get a hook-and-eye closure that is separate from the garment zipper closure. This "stay" must be snug enough around the waist to prevent the dress waistline from dropping. The stay gets hooked closed first, then the garment zipper or buttons are closed on top, hiding the sash.
Bra strap holder:
Another greatly needed elegant innard is the bra strap bar or holder. It works by keeping hidden, the errant bra strap that peeks out of boatneck tops and tanks.
A French tack is made, or, as a substitute, a serger chain can be used. One end is firmly stitched on the inside of the shoulder. The loose end gets one half of a tiny dress snap, with the other half getting attached to the inside shoulder seam far enough in from the edge to keep the straying strap from showing.
Soak up perspiration:
Human perspiration can really wreck havoc on clothing fibers, yellowing and disintegrating the cloth. Sweat sheilds, with its blunt name, does just what it implies. It is used in blazers and long sleeved dresses and blouses. In men's suits, it is usually installed in a more permanent placement, relying on the traditional care and cleaning of the garment to maintain itself.
It looks like a mini shoulder pad, moon crescent shape or a circle. It is stitched on its two ends, right under the arm (pit). The pad may fold over to also extend into the sleeve. They are removable with a snip of a clipper, and can be washed and repeatedly used afresh.
Boning security:
Besides its customary placement along princess seam gowns, boning can be used in small areas. The most well-known use of boning is a lightweight version used on mens' shirts, called a collar- stay. Poly boning can be snipped off and sewn around skirt or blouse tummy or neckline area where firmness is needed.
Misc extras
Built-in undergaments act as slinky linings and sheerness minimizers to the garments' own lining. Camisoles can be attached at the shoulder seams, petticoats, to the waist. Even bra cups can be tacked to the bustier area to support the garment look and eliminate the need for a brassiere.
The right kind of shoulder padding is an important structure-supporting addition, too, as are inner sleeve casings or sleeve stays inside puffy or mutton sleeves.
Luxury additions
- Side-waist zipper - avoids neckline cut in.
- Sleeve linings - usually of a higher grade silk for easier donning than the rest of the item.
- Filled and curled hems - for fabrics not needing sharp edges such as velvets, corduroy, flannels and some gown styles. Netting or batting is sewn inside the hem to give a roll edge
- Metal eyelets in good quality athletic clothing allows for skin venting
- Bias or lace hem edge finish - feathers the hem ridge on garment face
Extras for long life
- Hanger loops - holds with the least stress and drops itself to hide within
- Heelcuff patch - tiny suede patch at the heel area of mens trousers to prevent gnawing
- Elbow Patch - reinforcement in anticipation
- Hook at top of zipper - to alleviate stress placed on the zipper pull when closed
Keeping things in place
- French tacks - to keep skirt and coat lining from twisting and straying
- Hem weights - weighs down flimsy dresses for better fabric flow
- Gussets - for armscye and crotch areas. Eases the stress of the cross seaming
Easier upkeep
- Detachable trim - to make washing the garment easier and to allow for trim replacement. If trim is precious, such as handwrought lace or beading, it allows for heirlooming
Any wardrobe can be given a "plush factor" by integrating a few of these techniques. They are low cost solutions to common concerns over clothing issues. Most are DIY, but if not, find a good local tailor to help, then enjoy your new, comfortable and stepped up wardrobe.
